With over 15 years experience with Dynotuning, Tweakit’s able to provide a factory level tune to meet the most discriminating customer’s needs.  This is only possible when using a more sophisticated ECU such as the Haltech, Motec or Autronic.  Our preference is Haltech or Motec based on the customers needs and budget.  Rather than tell you how your car is going to go like a Ballistic Missile fired from a Euro Fighter doing mach 1, we've listed the a bit about the actual tuning process itself, so here goes...  Once the ECU has been installed and final checks are made we first do the following before the car gets on the Dyno…

1. Setup or Load the base map - Configure the ECU with the Laptop so the ECU knows what engine, sensors, ignition, and other basic features which don’t need the dyno or a running engine. 
2. Start the engine.
3. Adjust the Fuel / Ignition on the Laptop whilst connected to the ECU to get the car idling and light throttle as the dyno doesn’t help there.

Now the car is able to drive with light throttle, we are ready for the dyno.

• Roll the car onto the dyno and strap it down to make sure it can’t jump off under any circumstances.
• Setup the dyno cooling fans in front of the radiator and fit the chocks under the front wheels (on a rwd car).
• Start the car up and commence tuning the fuel and ignition maps.
• Setup Optional features such as Boost Control, soft touch rev limit, launch control, anti-lag, nitrous control, water spray, water injection, dual fuel, etc...
• Finish the tune, print off the Dyno graph for the customer.
• Shut down, unstrap the car and drive off the dyno and call the customer with the good news.

The car is now tuned for power, which is actually the easy part. Now it’s time to get the factory refinement tuned in.  This is where many tuners stop.  Well, it’s not entirely true, there are a lot of ECU brands around, and it’s actually a fact that very few even offer the tools to allow tuning the refinement in.  So if you're looking at something other than a Haltech, Motec or Autronic, be especially sceptical about any claims that the car won't drive like a bucking bronco.   It's often as good as even a top tuner can get on budget brands. 

• We tune the correction maps to allow the car to continue running smoothly when things change.  For example, Battery Voltage maps prevent tune changing when the headlights, high beam or a powerful stereo is turned on.  Why, because if the fuel injectors are tuned when they had 14.4volts and suddenly power drops to 12volts to the injectors, you could have a dangerous lean out, meaning pinging or engine destruction. 
• More correction maps… Air Temp, Coolant Temp...
• Setup and adjust the idle control and anti-stall...

• Setup accessories such as air conditioning, air temp, coolant temp rises. 
• Cold Start Tuning - Finally, we leave the car until first thing in the morning, so it’s dead cold.  Connect up again with the Laptop and attempt to start the car, adjust the starting maps to get the car to start up easily cold, and idle smoothly. 
• Because the car really only gets properly cold once a day, i.e. in the morning, this will normally need to be repeated the following day.  Some engines, especially the wilder ones can take a few mornings. 
• If the cold starts are tuned in warmer weather, like summer, the car may need to come back in Winter to do the final cold starts. Tuning the cold starts and warm-up parts for ice cold temps in warm weather is only possible with a car sized fridge, fed with a constant supply from a warehouse of chilled air.  In Australia, I believe Ford do have this type of mega-dollar cooling system to control the temperatures in their dyno room, but I'd hate to see their power bill.

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